Buying a double rifle is not like buying a bolt-action. The variables are different, the history matters more, and the consequences of buying the wrong rifle — or the right rifle in the wrong condition — are more difficult and expensive to correct. A good licensed dealer who knows double rifles will expect to be asked detailed questions. A dealer who cannot answer them, or who deflects, is telling you something important.

This article sets out the questions I would ask — and have asked — before buying a double rifle from a licensed dealer. Some apply equally to new and used rifles. Others are specific to used guns, where condition and history are the central concerns. The following article covers used-double-rifle considerations in more depth; this one focuses on what to ask the person across the counter.

Questions about the rifle itself

These are the foundational questions — the ones that establish what the rifle is, what it was built to do, and whether it is in a condition to do it.

What is the regulation load, and at what distance?

This is the first question for any double rifle, new or used. As covered in the regulation article, a double rifle is regulated with a specific bullet weight at a specific velocity at a specific distance. Without this information, you cannot select ammunition with confidence, and you cannot verify that the rifle is shooting correctly. A new rifle from a reputable maker should come with this information in writing. A used rifle may or may not have it — but the dealer should either know it or be honest that it is unknown and needs to be established by testing.

Has the rifle been proofed, and for what pressure?

Proof marks are the legal certification that a firearm has been tested to a specified pressure and found safe to use. Every double rifle sold in the UK, Europe, and most other regulated markets will carry proof marks from the relevant proof house — London, Birmingham, Liège, or others. The marks tell you the calibre, the proof pressure, and the date of proof. For a used rifle, they also tell you whether the rifle has been re-proofed after any significant work — barrel shortening, rechambering, or other alterations that require re-proof.

Ask the dealer to show you the proof marks and explain them. If the dealer cannot read proof marks, that is a concern. If the marks are absent or illegible, the rifle should not be sold as serviceable until it has been re-proofed. In Australia, imported firearms must comply with local proof and registration requirements — confirm with the dealer that the rifle's documentation is in order for your jurisdiction.

What is the bore condition?

Bore condition is the single most important indicator of a used double rifle's remaining service life. Ask to see the bores with a bore light, and ask the dealer to describe what they see. You are looking for sharp rifling with no significant erosion at the muzzle or in the throat, no pitting from corrosive primer residue or neglect, and no bulges or dents. A dealer who will not let you inspect the bores, or who cannot describe their condition accurately, is not a dealer to buy from.

For a new rifle, bore condition should not be a concern — but it is still worth asking the dealer to confirm that the bores have been inspected and are free of manufacturing defects before delivery.

Has the rifle been regulated recently, and with what load?

For a used rifle, ask whether the regulation has been verified recently and with what load. A rifle that has been sitting in a collection for twenty years may have regulation that has shifted slightly due to changes in the barrel join or stock bedding. A rifle that has been re-stocked or had significant work done may need re-regulation. If the dealer cannot confirm recent regulation verification, factor the cost of a gunsmith's inspection and potential re-regulation into your offer.

Are the ejectors functioning correctly on both barrels?

Ejector timing is a precision mechanism, and ejectors that are out of time — firing too early, too late, or inconsistently — are a known issue on used doubles. Ask the dealer to demonstrate the ejectors with snap caps. Both barrels should eject cleanly and at the same point in the opening stroke. Sticky ejectors, weak ejection, or ejectors that fire at different points in the stroke indicate a mechanism that needs attention. This is not necessarily a reason not to buy, but it is a cost to factor in.

Questions about fit and configuration

What are the stock dimensions, and can they be adjusted?

As covered in the fit and handling article, stock dimensions — length of pull, drop at comb, drop at heel, and cast — determine whether a rifle will mount consistently and shoot where you look. Ask the dealer for the stock dimensions of the rifle you are considering, and compare them to your own measurements. If the dimensions are close but not ideal, ask whether the stock can be adjusted — a competent gunsmith can alter length of pull, add or remove cast, and adjust drop within limits. If the dimensions are significantly wrong for your build, the cost of a full restock should be part of the conversation.

Is the rifle a boxlock or sidelock, and what are the implications for maintenance?

Both action types are covered in the configurations article. The practical question for the buyer is maintenance access and cost. Sidelocks are more complex, more expensive to service, and require a gunsmith with specific experience. Boxlocks are simpler and more widely serviceable. Ask the dealer which action type the rifle uses, and ask for their recommendation on where to have it serviced in your region. A dealer who cannot point you to a competent gunsmith for the rifle they are selling is leaving you without an important part of the ownership picture.

What barrel length and weight, and how does it balance?

Barrel length affects balance, handling, and — to a minor degree — velocity. Most dangerous-game doubles run 22 to 26 inches. Ask the dealer for the barrel length and the overall weight of the rifle, and if possible, handle it. A rifle that balances well in the hands will mount faster and feel more natural in the field than one that is muzzle-heavy or butt-heavy. Weight matters too — a .500 NE double at 11 pounds is manageable; one at 9 pounds is not, for most shooters.

Questions about provenance and documentation

What documentation comes with the rifle?

For a new rifle, documentation should include the maker's specification sheet, proof certificates, the regulation load, and any warranty information. For a used rifle, documentation may include the original purchase receipt, previous proof certificates, gunsmith service records, and correspondence with the maker. The more documentation, the better — it establishes the rifle's history and makes future service and re-sale easier. Ask what documentation is available and request copies of anything relevant.

Has the rifle been re-barrelled, re-stocked, or significantly altered?

Alterations to a double rifle — particularly re-barrelling or re-stocking — affect value, regulation, and proof status. A re-barrelled rifle may need re-regulation and re-proof. A re-stocked rifle may have different dimensions than the original. Ask directly whether any significant work has been done, and ask for documentation of that work. A reputable dealer will disclose alterations; one who does not is creating a problem for you to discover later.

What is the maker, and is the maker still in business?

The maker matters for parts availability, service, and value. A rifle from a maker who is still in business — Merkel, Heym, Krieghoff, Chapuis, and others — can be returned to the factory for service and parts. A rifle from a maker who is no longer trading — many of the great London makers are gone or much reduced — may still be serviceable by independent gunsmiths, but factory support is not available. Ask the dealer about the maker's current status and their recommendation for service.

The question most buyers forget

After all the technical questions, there is one more that is easy to overlook: what ammunition is available for this calibre in your market, and at what cost? A double rifle in a calibre for which factory ammunition is scarce, expensive, or unavailable in Australia is a rifle that will spend most of its time in the safe. The .500 NE, .470 NE, .450/.400 NE, and a handful of other calibres have reasonable factory ammunition availability. Some of the more obscure calibres do not. Ask the dealer what they know about ammunition availability for the calibre you are considering, and do your own research before committing.

If you intend to handload — which is the sensible long-term approach for most Nitro Express calibres — ask the dealer about component availability: brass, bullets, and load data. Woodleigh, Hornady, and a few other manufacturers produce components for the major NE calibres. For the less common calibres, components may need to be sourced internationally, which adds cost and lead time.

• What is the regulation load and regulation distance — in writing, if possible.
• Show me the proof marks and explain them.
• What is the bore condition — can I inspect with a bore light?
• Has the regulation been verified recently, and with what load?
• Demonstrate the ejectors with snap caps.
• What are the stock dimensions — length of pull, drop at comb, drop at heel, cast?
• Boxlock or sidelock, and who do you recommend for service in my region?
• What documentation comes with the rifle?
• Has the rifle been re-barrelled, re-stocked, or significantly altered?
• What factory ammunition is available for this calibre in Australia, and at what cost?